Bonneville Salt Flats: The Mecca of Speed

The visit to the Bonneville Salt Flats for Speed Week was everything I imagined and more. Not only is the Bonneville Salt Flats one of the wildest places on earth, it is also impossible to fully describe. The place is a stunningly beautiful contrast of endless flat white plains and tall rugged mountains all around it. The sky is vibrant blue, and the color of everything, from the cars to the cones is accentuated by the stark white salt.

It’s incredibly flat, incredibly white, and incredibly hot. Did I mention hot? The sun reflects from every angle and fortunately, I was smart enough to heed all the warnings about proper preparation. Sunscreen, light clothing, sunglasses, and a hat are not just suggestions, but necessities.

There seems to be very little organization. This is not to say it’s disorganized, but even with cones and some signage, there’s a feeling that there are very few rules and very few people enforcing them. Common sense and a sharp eye keep most cars from running into each other, despite the lack of any real “lanes” for spectators. It’s different for the four racing lanes which are clearly laid out and strictly enforced. You certainly don’t want a spectator car accidentally meandering out in front of a race car going 400 mph.

But Bonneville is not necessarily set up for spectators. It’s all about racing and the all-important speed record. Spectators could easily go wherever they wanted and get up close to the action either at the starting line or the pits. You could walk right up and ask a question or just watch as the crew worked on their cars. There’s no one best spot to watch the action, no bleachers or seats. You can watch the starting line, where the cars line up to race. Or you could watch from mid-track (anywhere from 1  mile to 7 miles of the ten-mile track). There is a vendors area,  although with really only one food vendor along with some ice cream and hat vendors.

The best way to experience it is to keep moving. I had rented a  flat-floored “Stow and Go” minivan which worked out perfectly as my portable home for the week. I went from the Track 1 starting line to Track 2 starting line, then to mid-track, and then to the pits and all the way to nearing the end of the track to watch them pull the parachutes. The SCTA, who runs the whole event, broadcasts the names of the teams as they race, and the times they’ve run. So I have the radio on at all times to hear the latest races and records wherever I was at the time.  I watched and listened as the Speed Demon set a new world’s record of 426 mph in its class. (Watch the video!)

Every different type of car was there, from sleek streamliners of every style to classic ‘32 Roadsters, to cool ‘60’s Ford Falcons and even a very long Nash Metropolitan. A classic ‘68 Barracuda called the Blowfish was one of my favs. There were plenty of motorcycles from stock to highly customized. All the vehicles were amazing and either required rocket science or good old car-guy ingenuity to make them run. Some were very loud with huge engines, and some were very small, low, and razor-thin with highly efficient and quiet 4-cylinder engines. There were even some electric vehicles!

One streamliner was so small that the driver had to lay down and barely lean his head forward to see. The car was only an inch off the ground and just tall enough to fit his body.  Imaging going several hundred miles per hour flat on your back in a narrow tube an inch off the ground! That’s real guts! These race cars are works of art and marvels of science.

Unlike drag racing, these racers are interested only in top speed, not how quickly they can get to it. With a ten-mile-long track, they can take their time getting to speed. So the cars take off slowly and lacking lower gears, most get pushed by another vehicle to a  good starting speed.

  Around 2:00 pm the sun gets a bit too intense for humans, so I simply parked my mini-van facing the track, cranked up the A/C, reclined my seat, and took a siesta.  It’s so hot that very moment you turn the car off, the cab temperature immediately skyrockets and you are sweating bullets!  Fortunately, at night the temperature drops to a comfortable 65-70 degrees.

Camping in the van was really great, and with plenty of water,  ice and food, I was completely comfortable. I camped in several different locations just to spice things up. I even took a  long ride up through the mountains for more scenic views. At the entrance to the salt flats is a  truck stop there with 24-hour food, showers, and bathrooms… not too bad!

At night, after they close the Bonneville flats, and most folks head into town. Wendover is split between the Utah side and the Nevada side (West Wendover). Needless to say, with casinos right on the Nevada side, it is much more exciting. (Although West Wendover, Nevada is no Las Vegas!)  There was a car show every night at the casino parking lot with quite a collection of Hot Rods, Rat Rods, and Classics. Drivers do not remove the salt that they’ve accumulated on their cars during the day, as it is a badge of honor and is worn proudly. Everyone exchanges stories, and tall tales, about their cars, races from the past, and the record that got away.

I found the people at Bonneville to be some of the friendliest folks I’ve ever met. From the racers to the crew members, to the spectators and the SCTA officials… we were all there for the same reason: to experience the fastest speeds on earth and be a part of racing history.